Hondoji
Nishikawa, Yamagata
During the Edo period, the Dewa Sanzan faith reached its peak, and pilgrims from across Japan came to what is now Nishikawa, Yamagata, to set out on the pilgrimage of rebirth. Before pilgrims could set off on the Rokujurigoe Kaidō, a historic pilgrimage route leading to the holy Mt. Yudono, the first stop was Hondoji Temple which served as the principal Bettō-ji (administrative temple).
Around the temple, pilgrimage inns popped up by the dozen, souvenir shops lined the streets, and it is said that the income earned during the summer pilgrimage season was enough to sustain a family for an entire year. Eventually, the area around Hondoji Temple became synonymous with the temple itself, and the neighborhood is still referred to as Hondoji today.
Kuchinomiya Yudonsan Shrine
According to temple records, Hondoji Temple was founded in 809 as a Shingon temple by the monk Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi). Later, in 827, the deity Yudonosan Daigongen was enshrined, and a temple complex was constructed, after which the name was changed to Gekkōzan Hondo-ji. In 1123, the monk Kūzan raised funds throughout the provinces and established a grand main hall complex, overseeing six sub-temples and forty-eight monk lodgings, laying the foundation for its enduring prosperity.
Thereafter, Hondo-ji received deep devotion from successive regional lords, including the Ōe clan of Sagae Castle, the Mogami clan of Yamagata Castle, and the Sakai clan. During the Edo period, it became an imperial prayer temple (Chokugan-ji) and was designated as one of the Tokugawa family’s seven official prayer sites.
The temple was revered not only by rulers but also by the common people. However, despite its former prosperity, the temple’s fortunes declined with the upheavals of the Meiji Restoration. In 1868, during the Boshin War, fierce battles took place around Hondo-ji between the new government army, leading northern domain forces, and the remaining shogunate troops. The advancing government forces set fire to the temple complex, burning it to the ground.
Later, in 1874, the Shinbutsu Bunri decree officially separated Shinto and Buddhism, and Hondo-ji was renamed Kuchinomiya Yudonosan Shrine, formally designating it as a Shinto shrine. As a result, all Buddhist objects and artifacts had to be removed, and many Buddhist statues and ritual implements were scattered to other temples. The temple buildings destroyed in the Boshin War were rebuilt in 1890 as the current main and worship halls, though on a much smaller scale than in their former glory.
The Miracle of the Nio Statues
The Nio (also called Kongōrikishi) are fierce guardian deities who protect the teachings of the Buddha from evil. They are depicted as a pair: Agyō, with mouth open (representing birth), and Ungyō, with mouth closed (representing death). They are said to embody the beginning and end of all things.
Made from expertly carved wood and careful lacquercraft, the Nio statues of Hondoji are roughly 4 meters tall and weigh 1.5 tons each. The exact date of their creation and the sculptor are still unknown; however, the gate where they stand, known as the Nio-mon, is said to have been built around 1723.
During the Meiji Restoration, the government’s anti-Buddhist movement led to the destruction of many temples, and many of Hondoji’s Buddhist artifacts—including the Nio statues—were at risk of being destroyed. Fortunately, they were preserved through the cooperation of local believers and relocated to Yamagata City, and then temporarily housed in a hall at Jionji Temple in Sagae. In 1875, the Nio statues were moved to a small temple building within the grounds of the Yamagata Onsen Hot Spring Resort, and when the Yamagata Grande Hotel (later the Sendai Hotel) was built in 1905, the statues were relocated once more to a new building nearby.
After World War II, when the Sendai Hotel reopened in 1945, the statues were displayed in the hotel lobby as the focal point of the reception. In 1964, they were returned to Hondoji Temple once again, where they remain today, enshrined in the rebuilt gate that has been standing for over 230 years.
The Nio statues of Hondoji have survived fire, war, persecution, and relocation over three centuries, thanks to the faith and dedication of the people of Yamagata. During the 2004 restoration of the gate, their brilliant and dynamic appearance was revived, symbolizing the enduring spiritual strength of the Hondoji community
A Buddha Within
During the restoration process of Fumonin Temple in Yonezawa in 2024, it was discovered that the statue of Dainichi Nyorai had originally come to Fumon-in from Hondoji about 230 years ago. This remarkable finding led to the beginning of a new relationship between the two temples. What was more, the X-rays of the statue revealed that two smaller Buddha statues (tainaibutsu) had been hidden inside the larger statue and had gone unknown for over two centuries!
While it was decided that once again moving them from Yonezawa would be disruptive, in order to pay respects to their origins, a special replica statue of the larger of the two internal Buddhas was made by using special scanning technologies, and then an exact model was produced with a 3D printer. Detailing and painting were added by expert craftsmen from Kyoto, and in 2025, a ceremony was held at Kuchinomiya Yudonsan Shrine, where the replica has found its new home.
Restoring Hondoji
Since the Meiji Period, Hondoji has been on the decline, with only around ten households remaining as of 2025. However, all hope is not lost. A group of dedicated volunteers meets frequently to help restore the temple grounds, doing routine maintenance on the temple, as well as fixing the damage done by the Shinbutsu Bunri decree.
The people of this area care so much about their home, and their efforts are not in vain. Since 2014, many of the graves have been restored, and their owners identified. The shrine is open to the public once per month, and many visitors from all over the country come to pray, make offerings, or even just to help out.
Interested in helping out? In our mission to connect the local with the global, we offer various volunteer and cultural exchange opportunities where you can come and make a difference. Help restore Hondoji to its former glory, and make it so its rich history isn’t lost in the cracks of time.
